RickBAYLESS
Rick Bayless, through his writings, television series and acclaimed Chicago restaurants,
has given Americans a new appreciation for Mexican cuisine, and his cooking (including
variations on the following recipes) is now available in L.A. at Red O. This coming week
at the Hollywood Bowl, the program is Viva Mexico!, and there is no chef in the
world better suited for this Chefs Picnic Club edition.
“I like to create playlists for certain parties—music that
reflects what I am making. If I am making tropical ceviches, I rely on my music to create
the mood for my party. Music does everything that I want it to do at a meal—it eases
everyone into a fun groove and gets them ready for something good.”
—Rick Bayless
www.redorestaurant.com
[+click here] for our weekend entertainment guide
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 PRESENTS THIS WEEK’S RECIPES:
HERB GREEN CEVICHE WITH CUCUMBER (Ceviche Verde Con Pepino)
SKIRT STEAK SALAD WITH “WILTED” GREENS, TOMATO, AVOCADO & LIME
(Ensalada de Arrachera con Lechugas Tibias, Jitomate, Aguacate y Limón)
SMOKY PORK TINGA TACOS WITH AVOCADO AND FRESH CHEESE (Tacos de Tinga Poblana con
Aguacate y Queso Fresco)
CHOCOLATE PECAN PIE BARS
[print_link]
HERB GREEN CEVICHE WITH CUCUMBER
(Ceviche Verde Con Pepino)
Serves 8-10 (makes about 4-1/2 cups)
INGREDIENTS
- 1/2 head garlic, cloves broken apart
- 2 to 3 fresh serrano chiles
- 1 medium bunch cilantro, thick bottom stems cut off
- 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, thick bottom stems cut off
- 1/2 cup olive oil
- Salt
- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
- 1-1/2 pounds sashimi-quality skinless, boneless fish fillets—my favorites are
Alaskan halibut, ahi tuna and aqua-cultured Kona Kampachi (a type of yellowtail)—
cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 2 (7 ounces total) small “pickle” cucumbers (the kind you get in the farmers
market) or Persian (baby) cucumbers, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 2 ripe large avocados, pitted, flesh scooped from skin and then cut into cubes
- Lettuce leaves (butter lettuce works great here) for garnish
PROCEDURE
Making the Herb Seasoning
- Set a dry skillet over medium heat. Lay in the unpeeled garlic cloves and chiles. Roast,
turning frequently, until soft and blotchy brown in spots, about 10 minutes for the chiles
and 15 minutes for the garlic. Cool until handleable, then slip the skins off the garlic,
pull stems off the chiles and roughly chop (no need to remove the seeds).
- Place in a food processor along with the cilantro (about 1 cup if packed), parsley (about
1 cup if packed), oil and 2 generous teaspoons salt. Process until nearly smooth (it will
be pasty). Scrape into a storage container and refrigerate until serving time.
Finishing the Ceviche
- In a large bowl, whisk together the lime juice and 1/2 cup of the herb seasoning. (Cover
and refrigerate the remainder for another preparation.)
- Add the fish and cucumber, and stir to combine. To blend the flavors, cover and refrigerate
for a half-hour (for best results no more than an hour).
- Taste and season with a little more lime juice or salt if you think necessary, gently stir
in the avocado (save out a little for garnish if you want), then serve on lettuce leaf-lined
plates or martini glasses.
| CHEF’S NOTE
This is one of my favorite dishes of all times: that seductive texture of fresh fish with a
citric sparkle, the savor of roasted garlic and green chile, and the oh-so-attractive vividness
of fresh cilantro and parsley. Add a little farmers market cucumber and buttery avocado, and
you’ve made a dish no one will forget. My inspiration was an all-green ceviche I ate in Mexico,
prepared by my Veracruzana friend Carmen Ramírez Degollado, and the chimichurri they serve on
steak in Argentina.
I don’t usually follow regular ceviche procedure here, thoroughly “cooking” the fish
in lime juice for several hours before serving. Instead, I toss the raw fish with lime and
flavorings, scoop it into something pretty and carry it to the table—that’s the essence of
freshness. But if that doesn’t sound good to you, stir a couple of cups fresh lime juice into
the raw fish, refrigerate it for a couple of hours until the fish has a cooked texture, drain
it and add the herb mixture and vegetables. Or just use cooked shrimp instead of raw fish, which
I did last week for dinner and loved the outcome.
One thing to keep in mind: you’ll have more than you need of the herb mixture (we call it Mexican
chimichurri in our kitchen). You’ll thank me for that. Store it in a covered container in the
refrigerator (pour a film of oil over the top). It’ll keep for a month or more. I smear it on
chicken before grilling or roasting it. I stir it into scrambled eggs. I add it to salad dressing
and cream sauces. It’ll make your everyday cooking taste special-occasion.
Working Ahead: As I said, the herb seasoning can be stored in the refrigerator for a month
or more. All the basic prep work can be done early in the day you’re serving; store everything
separately, covered, in the refrigerator. Mix and season the ceviche shortly before serving—no
more than hour—waiting to add the avocado until the guests have assembled.
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SKIRT STEAK SALAD WITH “WILTED” GREENS, TOMATO, AVOCADO & LIME
(Ensalada de Arrachera con Lechugas Tibias, Jitomate, Aguacate y Limón)
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
- 1 medium-large head (8 ounces) frisée or escarole (root-end cut off, the remainder cut into 2-inch sections) or
8 ounces salad spinach, long stems removed
- 2 medium-large (about 1 pound total) ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch (or smaller) cubes
- 2 medium avocados, pitted, flesh scooped from skin and cut into 1/2-inch (or smaller) cubes
- 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil (divided use)
- 1 pound skirt steak (thicker “outer” skirt steak is most tender—it should already be
trimmed of the exterior white membrane and surface fat)
- Salt
- Ground black pepper
- 2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped or crushed through a garlic press
- 1/4 cup beef broth or water
- 1 canned chipotle chile en adobo, seeds scraped out and finely chopped
- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
- About 1/3 cup grated Mexican queso añejo or other garnishing cheese, such as Romano or Parmesan
PROCEDURE
- Scoop the frisée (you should have about 8 cups) or spinach into a large bowl. Strew the chopped
tomato and avocado over the top.
- Set a very large (12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-high heat, and measure in 2 tablespoons of the oil.
Sprinkle both sides of the skirt steak with salt and pepper. Lay it in the hot oil and cook until it’s
about medium, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove to a cooking rack set over a large plate—this
keeps juices in meat rather than running out onto the plate.
- Turn the heat under the skillet to low. Add the garlic and stir for a few seconds until very fragrant.
Then pour in the broth (or water) and stir to release any browned bits on the bottom of the skillet (the
liquid will quickly come to a boil). Turn off the heat and add the chile, along with the lime juice and
1/4 cup oil. Season with salt (usually 1/2 teaspoon) and pepper (about 1/4 teaspoon is right for me).
- Cut the skirt steak into roughly 3-inch lengths, then cut each piece across the grain into 1/4-inch strips.
Add to the bowl with the frisée. Pour the warm dressing over the frisée and toss to coat thoroughly—the
greens will wilt slightly. Divide among four dinner plates or large salad bowls. Sprinkle with the grated
cheese and serve right away.
| CHEF’S NOTE
For me, this is an incredibly satisfying dinner with a thick slice of the seven-grain bread
from our local bakery. I love the extra-beefy flavor of skirt steak, the rustic chew of the
frisée (salad spinach is also good), and the savory pleasure of the warm chipotle-infused dressing.
The creamy avocado and ripe tomato don’t hurt either.
Now, for some added variety, here are a few riffs on the skirt steak salad:
Chicken or Flank Steak Salad: Feel free to substitute boneless skinless chicken
breast or thighs for the skirt steak. Or choose a 1- to 1-1/4-pound piece of flank steak and cook
it whole (it’ll take a few minutes longer than the skirt steak), then slice it across the grain
(if pieces are awkwardly long, cut them in half). When our local tomatoes aren’t in season, I use
sliced sun-dried tomatoes (my favorites are ones that have the texture of soft dried fruit, though
drained oil-packed ones work well too). This is the perfect place for farmers market greens like
Japanese mizuna or shungiku greens, wild arugula, young dandelion and amaranth; a little watercress,
young purslane and pea shoots are also fabulous additions.
Bacon-and-Onion Salad: This variation may be over-the-top for everyday eating, but
I love bacon as much as skirt steak: Slice 2 thick pieces of bacon crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces.
Scoop into a very large (12-inch) skillet, along with a sliced red onion and a tablespoon of olive
oil. Fry over medium heat until the onion is richly browned. Scoop into a bowl, leaving behind as
much fat as possible; use the skillet to fry the meat, as directed. Add the onion mixture to the
salad along with the meat.
Vegetarian Grilled Eggplant Salad: When I’ve got the grill fired up, I often grill
extra things to serve for the next few meals: Cut 1 large eggplant and 1 large red onion into 1/2-inch
slices; spray both sides of slices with oil; and sprinkle with salt. Grill over medium-high heat until
browned and softening (this can also be done in a grill pan or under the broiler). Cut the eggplant
into strips. Make the dressing in a skillet as described, replacing the beef broth with rich vegetable
stock and the lime juice with balsamic vinegar. I would leave the avocado out.
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SMOKY PORK TINGA TACOS WITH AVOCADO AND FRESH CHEESE (Tacos de Tinga Poblana con Aguacate y Queso Fresco)
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
- 4 medium (1 pound total) red-skin boiling or Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted)
- 3 to 4 canned chipotle chiles en adobo*, stemmed, seeded and sliced 1/4-inch thick
- 1 tablespoon chipotle canning sauce
- 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
- 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped or crushed through a garlic press
- 1 medium white onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick (optional)
- Salt
- 4 ounces fresh Mexican chorizo sausage (optional), casing removed
- 24 warm corn tortillas, store bought or homemade
- 1 cup crumbled Mexican queso fresco or other fresh cheese like feta or goat cheese, for serving
- 2 large avocados, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch pieces, for serving
PROCEDURE
- Spread the potatoes over the bottom of a slow cooker and top with the pork. In a large bowl
mix the undrained tomatoes with the sliced chipotles, chipotle canning sauce, Worcestershire,
oregano, garlic, optional onion and 1-1/2 teaspoons salt.
- Pour the mixture evenly over the meat and potatoes. Cover and slow-cook for 6 hours (the dish
can hold on a slow-cooker’s “keep warm” function for 4 more hours or so).
- When you are ready to eat, fry the optional chorizo in a medium (8-inch) skillet until thoroughly
done, about 4 minutes. Uncover the pork tinga and spoon off any fat that has accumulated on top.
Sprinkle on the chorizo, then stir everything together, breaking the pork into smaller pieces—right
for wrapping into tortillas. (If there is a lot of liquid, tip it off and boil it rapidly until
reduced and syrupy; stir it into the meat mixture.)
- Taste and season with additional salt if you think the mixture needs it. Serve with warm tortillas,
crumbled fresh cheese and avocado for making soft tacos.
| CHEF’S NOTE
*Chipotle chiles en adobo are chipotle chiles stewed in a tomato sauce, usually sold in cans.
They are available at Latin markets, as well as some mainstream supermarkets.
Twenty-five years ago, the first time I spent any appreciable time in Puebla, I fell in love with crusty
submarine-like tortas filled with spicy, chipotle-smoky shredded pork layered with the local fresh cheese
and intensely flavored avocados. The same crowd-pleasing filling is welcome in soft tacos, too, as you
might imagine. Or just served on its own like you would a bowl a chili. The flavor of tinga appeals to
practically everyone everywhere.
I know this recipe may look long, but it’s completely streamlined…easy. I’ve marked the chorizo and onion
as options, because the dish is perfectly delicious without those typical ingredients.
Riffs on Tinga: Both chicken and beef tinga are common in snack shops (antojiterías),
market stalls and street stalls all over central and southern Mexico: To vary this recipe, replace the pork with 2
pounds of boneless, skinless chicken thighs or an equivalent amount of cubed beef chuck (I’d skip the optional chorizo
with the beef). If the dish is still going to be recognizable as tinga, the meat and potatoes are about the only
ingredients you can vary. (It’s a little exotic, but cubes of peeled malanga, yuca and Mexican white sweet potato—camote
morado—are delicious in tinga.)
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CHOCOLATE PECAN PIE BARS
Makes 24 bars
INGREDIENTS
- 2-1/2 cups (about 10 ounces) pecan halves
- 1 cup (about 6 ounces) finely chopped Mexican chocolate (such as the widely available Ibarra brand)
- 6 ounces (about 6 to 8 slices) fresh white bread, preferably cakey sandwich bread (like Pepperidge Farm), broken into large pieces
- 1 cup (8 ounces) melted butter, plus extra for coating the pan
- A generous 3/4 teaspoon salt
- 5 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped into pieces not larger than 1/4-inch
- 3 tablespoons flour
- 4 large eggs
- 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
- 1 cup corn syrup, preferably dark (or you can use a mixture of corn syrup and molasses, sorghum, Steen’s cane syrup or most any of the other rich-flavored syrups that are on the market)
- 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
- Powdered sugar for garnish
PROCEDURE
- Heat the oven to 325°F. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet. Bake until richly browned and
toasty smelling, about 10 minutes. Let cool, then scoop into the food processor and coarsely chop
by turning the machine on and off. Remove about 1-1/2 cups of the nuts and put in a large bowl to
use in the filling. Add half of the Mexican chocolate to the nuts in the food processor and pulse
the machine to mix them. Add bread slices; process until everything is fairly fine crumbs. Add 1/3
cup of the melted butter and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Process just to moisten everything. (Lacking
a food processor, you can chop each item separately with any other appliance or gadget you deem
appropriate, then combine them in a bowl with the melted butter and salt.) Liberally butter a 13×9-inch
baking pan, then evenly pat in the crumb crust mixture. Refrigerate while you make the filling.
- Add the remaining half of the Mexican chocolate, the chopped semisweet chocolate and the flour to
the bowl with the reserved pecans. In the food processor (you don’t even need to clean it), mix the eggs
and sugar until well combined. Add the corn syrup, pulse a couple of times, then add the remaining 2/3
cup of melted butter, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and all the vanilla. Process to combine thoroughly,
then pour over the pecan filling mixture, stir well and scrape everything into your crust-lined pan.
- Bake 40 to 50 minutes or until the bars have pulled away slightly from the side of the pan. Let cool to
room temperature before cutting into 2 inch-squares, dusting with powdered sugar and arranging on an
attractive serving platter.
| CHEF’S NOTE
You may yearn for the gooey challenge of the typical Southern pecan pie (I grew up on it; I’ve been
there), but my tastes have made a change. I want my nuts and goo studded with bittersweet chocolate now,
so that’s what I designed for this specialty dessert. Here I’ve turned that same approach into bars,
simplifying my original pie recipe and giving it a form that’s right for a buffet, a party or picnic
at the Hollywood Bowl. Rather than pastry, I’ve made an easy crust of bread crumbs and crunchy Mexican
chocolate, then filled it with an indulgent cargo of nuts and chocolate held together with just a bit
of not-too-sweet goo. You may find it easiest to line your pan with a carefully flattened piece of
heavy-duty foil to help lift the bars out. Chilling them first will make them easier to cut. |
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